Understand

Tehran is a cosmopolitan city, with great museums, parks, restaurants, warm friendly people. It deserves at least a few days of your Iranian itinerary.

The city can be roughly divided into two parts - north and south. The northern districts of Tehran are more prosperous, modern, cosmopolitan and expensive while southern parts is less attractive but cheaper.

At the time of the Zand dynasty, it was a little town that was significant from a strategic point of view. The first of the Qajar kings, Agha Mohammed Khan, named Tehran as the country's capital in 1778, and most of its growth started during the reign of a subsequent Qajar monarch, Fath-Ali Shah. The castle which Agha Mohammed Khan had built was to contain the new majestic buildings.

At the same time, the city's populace was redoubled. Due to the increasing significance of the city, gates, squares and mosques were built and it was at the time of Nassereddin Shah that the city's master sketch was prepared and modern streets were constructed. Later, huge central squares like Toopkhaneh square (now Imam Khomeini) and quite a few military buildings were built. Even though the Qajar dynasty was in a period of decline, Tehran soon took the shape of a modern city. The structure of large government buildings, new streets, recreation centres, urban service organizations, and academic and methodical centres were started, even as most of the old gates and buildings were destroyed and the city's old architectural fabric replaced by a contemporary one.

Tehran has also earned itself an unenviable reputation as a smog-filled, traffic-clogged and featureless sprawl of concrete bursting at the seams with 14 million residents. But you can also find an endless number of nice and cosy places in and around the city - if you know where to look. Tehran is also a city of more than 800 parks, all well-kept. The city is nearly a mile high above sea level and as a result is cooler than other cities in the middle east. Summer temperatures are around 32°C or (90-95°F). The air tends to be very dry.

A combination of factors make Tehran a pleasant place to visit: the dry climate which is constantly cool (at least in the evenings), the proximity of the mountains, the parks and gardens where flowers blossom all through the year, the alleys of trees in the avenues or even smaller streets, and even the water that runs down from the upper city along deep and wide gutters which look like small rivers during spring. The Alborz range on the north of Tehran, which hosts the highest peak in Iran, provides fantastic conditions for ski lovers in the winter. In winter, the mountain hotels and ski-clubs at Shemshak, and Dizine are full several days a week. Some specialist skiers consider the snow value in northern Tehran to be one of the most excellent in the world.

By plane

1 Imam Khomeini International Airport (IKA ^IATA) (55 km southwest of the city center, Robat Karim railway station (ایستگاه راه آهن رباط کریم) around 3 km northwest near Line 1 'Kahrizak' ~ 20 km NE). The only airport in Tehran to which international passenger flights operate. (updated Nov 2016 | edit)

Ground transportation:

• Metro easiest way to reach city center is by metro line. New line number 8 connects Airport Terminal A with metro line 1. One ticket is needed (10,000 rials).
• Buses between the airport and the city (e.g. Haram Metro station) run every 30-60 min 07:00-23:00. They leave right in front of the main exit and cost 20,000-30,000 rial. There are unconfirmed reports of a shuttle bus operating between IKIA and Mehrabad Airport every 4–5 hours.
• Taxis cost a fixed rate of 800,000 rials (or US$25 or €20 as of Oct 2017), ask at the taxi counter. The drive to/from the city center takes 45 minutes without traffic, but can take upwards of 90 minutes with traffic. There is a booth organizing taxis right outside the arrivals hall. You can also bargain with taxis dropping off passengers at the arrivals hall because otherwise they would have to go back to Tehran empty. Taxis to the nearest metro station (Haram-e-Motahhar) cost 500,000 rials.
• Shuttle taxis/green minibuses operate between the airport and Shahed Station on the red line of the metro. This can be a convenient option going to the airport from town, but finding the shuttle taxis at the airport will be difficult as many don't stop there. At 7000 rials for a metro ticket and 40,000 rials for a shuttle taxi (they will try to rip you off or charge for bringing in luggage even if there is space, so make sure to only occupy one seat if you don't want to pay extra), it is probably the cheapest option from town that doesn't require waiting a long time for the bus (shuttle taxis leave when full). At Shahed station, get out to the parking area (there is only one exit and you can't miss it) and on the very left you will see green minibuses. It takes about 30-40 min from there to the airport. Last one departs around 21:30
• Metro Line 1 (Red) During daytime there is a metro from IKA to Tehran. The trains run hourly so check schedule (Sep 2017).

2 Tehran's Mehrabad airport (THR ^IATA). Mehrabad is only used for domestic and cargo flights. It is connected to Tehran Metro Line 4. (updated Sep 2016 | edit)

Despite the warnings in some travel guides, there is no exit fee for foreign travellers, neither in Mehrabad nor in Imam Khomeini Airport. The exit fee applies to foreign travellers only when leaving Iran on land or by sea.

By train

For Turkey, first travel to Tabriz. A train runs from there on Mondays around 23:30, to reach Van by 07:00 next morning. To continue west towards Ankara and Istanbul either take a bus from Van, or cross the lake to Tatvan for the twice-weekly train to Ankara. The eastbound train leaves Van 21:00 Tuesday to reach Tabriz by 07:30 Wednesday. The through-service "Trans-Asia Express" between Tehran and Ankara remains suspended.

By car

Traffic is very congested but has improved with the completion of several new tunnels and highways (referred to as autobahns by the locals) across the city. You can drive in from Turkey fairly easily as well as from the Southern parts of Iran. Although Iran has been always among the countries with high number driving accidents, the police have cracked down on accidents and driving is now safer than before. It is possible to rent a car at IKA airport, Mehrabad and in the city with Europcar..

If you are going to use roads and ground transportation, there's a website maintained by the government's Ministry of Transportation and Urban Development available here or here that publishes roads' statuses. You might need to use Google Translate to understand the text when navigating through the pages.

By bus

Get around

By bus

Tehran has an inexpensive but confusing bus network. Some require prepaid contactless card (min 5,000 rials), which can be bought from booths beside the bus stops and metro stations used when you get off the bus, and some should be paid by cash (ranging from 1,000-4,000 rials). The buses are partitioned in two sections, men-only (the front section) and women-only(the back section).

In the BRT lines, the women-only section is at the front. Also, the fee is paid on the station, using the prepaid contactless card (shared with Metro), or paying to the guard.

Since bus numbers, route descriptions and other information are in Persian, your best bet is to look confused at a bus terminal; a local will surely stop to help. Each bus line has a certain and almost invariable path but only people know exactly which bus stations exist for a certain road. You shouldn't expect a map or guides even in Persian showing the bus network or bus stations. Even asking the bus driver wouldn't be a great help for you to find your way either. If you get in a bus and looking for a certain station to alight, ask one to help you - you will find many people wish to help you to find your way, most of the time.

BRT (Bus Rapid Transit)

The BRT buses are colored in red. BRTs has special lines and travels very quickly from Azadi square (west of Tehran) directly to the East (Terminal-e-Shargh). Railway square (south of Tehran) directly to the north (Tajrish square). Azadi square to free university (northwest). Azadi Square to South Terminal and parkway bridge (north of Tehran) to jomhuri square. Costs 1,000-3,000 rials. In high-traffic hours (07:00-09:00 & 16:00-20:00) it is the best way to traveling . BRT has too many stations near main streets. Although you may not find an empty seat on the bus because of the crowds, people give their place to you if they know you are a tourist. The women's and men's seats and queues are separate.

By metro

Tehran's metro system has seven lines that will whisk you quickly from one end of the city to the other without having to deal with the noise, pollution and chaos of Tehrani traffic. However, many residents decided to leave their cars and commute by metro, so expect huge crowds during rush hours.

There are seven lines but the two most useful are lines 1 (north to south- from Qeytariyeh Station to Haram-e-Motahar Station) and 2 (east to west) which connect at the central Imam Khomeini station. All stations have signs in Persian and English. Trains run every 10 minutes or less on rush hours (15 minutes on Fridays and holidays) from around 05:30 to 23:00 every day.

Line 6 appears on route maps already (Nov 2017), but is not operational.

Tickets are valid for 1 or 2 trips (including change of lines) and cost 8,000 or 10,000 rials respectively. There are ticket booths at every station. You can also buy a contactless fare card which is the best option if you are going to use metro a lot, or want to have less hassle by paying 50,000 rials for a card and use it on metro and some city buses (if you use this card, you usually pay less than any other tickets, since they charge for the longest trip on the network). There are two dedicated women-only carriages at each end of the train. Women can anyway choose to travel aboard the other carriages but rarely do.

There are a few apps for Android and iOS devices to assist passengers on using the metro. You can try downloading the Tehran Metro app which is made for foreign travellers. First you can find yourself on Google map (with stations marked on it) and your destination to decide which station you can get in and to which you want to arrive. After it you can select them on the stations map to get a textual explanation on taking directions and line changes along with a travel time estimation.

By taxi

See

• 1 The Azadi Tower, Kuy-e-Mehr Abad (Azadi Square Subway Station). The longstanding symbol of Tehran was constructed to commemorate the 2,500th anniversary of the Persian empire, combines elements of Sassanid and Islamic architecture. The entrance of the tower is directly underneath the main vault and leads into the Azadi Museum on the basement floor. Do not sit on the grass! Officers chase away people. (updated Nov 2016 | edit)

• 2 Mausoleum of Ayatollah Khomeini (The Tomb of Imam Khomeini), near to Behesht-e Zahra, Cemetery Highway (بزرگراه بهشت زهرا) (Metro: Haram-e-Motahar NW 300m,). The gigantic mausoleum is on the southern edge of the city. The sheer size of the shrine/shopping centre is enough to make the trip worth it. Entrance is free.. edit

• 3 Milad Tower (برج میلاد) (From Metro Tarasht 3.5 km NE or from Metro Hemmat 4 km W), ☎ +98 21 8436 1000. 435 m-high Milad tower is the fourth-tallest tower in the world and 12th-tallest freestanding structure in the world, and it is visible from almost everywhere in Tehran. Tickets to enter the observation lounge must be reserved well in advance. There are several restaurants in and around the tower, and a mediocre art gallery. 2 viewing decks exist: indoor sky dome at 305m - 350,000 rials, outdoor viewing deck at 250m - 120,000 rials. (updated Feb 2017 | edit)

Museums

• 18 Saadabad Palace, Vali Asr Ave (The Saadabad palace and museum complex can be reached by foot from Tajrish Square. Walk up Sa'dabad St. past the Arg Shopping Center and turn left on reaching Afraz St. Turn right at the next intersection and walk down Javdan St., again turning right at the next intersection. Go all the way up to the end of Taheri St. where the south gate is located. Entrance to the park is free, but you must purchase all tickets to the museums you want to visit beforehand at the gate. Be careful of traffic while walking there!), ☎ +98 21 228 2031, fax: +98 21 228 2079. A palace built by the Pahlavi dynasty of Iran in the Shemiran area of Tehran. The complex was first inhabited by Qajar monarchs and royal family in the 19th century. Parts of the Saadabad Palace compound are museums, in which visitors can roam through and look at the rich history of Iran. The following museums make up the complex: Klara Abkar Painting Museum - Hossein Behzad (miniature) Paintings Museum, - Abkar Miniature Museum, - Fine Arts Museum (18th & 19th century European Paintings), - Kamaleddin Behzad Miniature Museum, - Mahmoud Farshchian Miniature Museum, - Mellat Palace Museum, - Military Museum (موزه نظامی), - Mir Emad Calligraphy Museum, - Ethnological Research Museum, - Iranian National Museum of War - Green Museum (Shah Reza Summer Palace), - Water Museum (Keeping, restoring and revenue operation of water in Iran). Rojat Palace, Ebrat Palace (Mother), Vessels Museum (Ashraf Palace), Dafineh Museum, Farideh Diba Palace, Natural History Museum - - Other buildings on complex area: Shahram Palace, Prince Palace, Leila Palace, Farahnaz Palace, Hamid Reza Palace, Gholamreza Palace, Nasiri Palace, Twin Ghajar Palace. edit
  • Green Palace. Built in 1922-1928. Main parts of it: Waiting room, Reza Shah working room, Ceremonies Hall, Reza shah Dinning room, Corridor, Reza Shah Bedroom, Ceremony Hall. edit
  • National Arts Museum (موزه هنرهای زیبا ?, Africa Museum) (in Baharestan district.). Part of Saadabad Palace. Shah gifts from Chinese, Indian's and African's Delegations. edit

• 19 Former Qasr Prison (Ghasr Prison, زندان قصر), Marvdasht? Qelichkhani?. Closed or moved? Now there is the Islamic Revolution Court? (دادگاه انقلاب اسلامی) - It was built by the order of Fat′h Ali Shah of the Qajar dynasty in 1790 in the form of a palace. edit

• 20 Time Museum (Tamasha-gah Zaman, تماشاگه زمان), Asad Abad? No. 12, Baqdadi St. (Baghdadi Bahar), (Zaferanieh St., Vali Asr Ave., Farmaniye district, north of Tehran - Bus BRT 7 to 'Baagh Ferdows'), ☎ +98 21 241 7336. Evolution of time-measurement instruments. In a building (700 m²) with a garden (0.6 ha). edit

• 21 Money Museum (تماشاگه پول), No.1, Daman Afshar (نبش کوچه دفینه), Mirdamad Street (Mirdamad Blvd?), Vali Asr Ave (From Metro 'Haghani' NW 1km), ☎ +98 21 879 5994, +98 21 877 4745, fax: +98 21 877 4744. Coins and banknotes from different historic periods. edit

• 22 Former Towhid Prison, now the Edification Museum (Ebrat Museum), 11, Martyr Yarjani St, - Kushk Mesri St. (Ferdousi Ave., Imam Khomeini Sq.(ميدان امام خميني) - From Metro 'Imam Khomeini' 300m NW). Tours daily 10:00 & 14:00. Persian:بازداشتگاه توحید , The prison of Shah ages. It was an unofficial detention centre in Tehran, used against opponents of the Islamic Republic of Iran until its closure in 2000. edit

• Talar Vahdat Theater. edit

• 23 Paradise Garden, Baq-e Ferdous Park? (باغ فردو س), Delbar (From Metro 'Tajrish' West 1.1 km). edit

• 24 13 (Martyrs?) Aban Museum (شهدا), Imam (Sepah) Sq. (From M 'Emam Hossein' NW 0.7km), ☎ +98-21 670-1915. Sa-Th 09:00-20:00. Paintings, sculptures of people, kings, artists and scientists. Masterpieces of "Seyed Ali Akbar Sanati". edit

• 25 Air Force Museum, Karaj Highway (جاده مخصوص کرج) (Ekbatan Metro Station 1 km south), ☎ +98 21 600 9318, fax: +98 21 600 8168. edit

• 26 Akskhaneh Shahr (Photography Museum), Bahar-e-Shiraz Ave (From Haft-e-Tir Subway Station 0.8 km east), ☎ +98-21 884-8993. Ancient photos, tools and equipment. edit

• 27 Azadi Cultural Complex (Azadi Tower, Persian: برج آزادی, Borj-e Āzādi; translated: Freedom Tower, previously known as the Shahyād Āryāmehr (Persian: شهیاد آریامهر; English: King Memorial Tower)), Azadi Square (Persian: میدانِ آزادی), or Freedom Square (M: Azadi Square Subway Station), ☎ +98 21 602 3951, fax: +98 21 600 8168. Azadi Tower built in 1971 in commemoration of the 2,500th anniversary of the Persian Empire, this "Gateway into Iran" was named the Shahyad Tower, meaning "Kings' Memorial", but was dubbed Azadi (Freedom) after the Iranian Revolution of 1979. It is 50 m tall and completely clad in cut marble. edit

• 28 Coin Museum (سکه), Imam Khomeini Avenue, Amnar (امنار) (M: Imam Khomeini), ☎ +98 21 311 1091, fax: +98 21 311 3936. edit

• 29 Dr. Hesabi Memorial Museum, 8 Hesabi St., Zaferanieh, Vali Asr Ave (M 'Tajrish' 0.9km, 17th street corner), ☎ +98 21 223 1676, fax: +98 21 221 8548. edit

• Ethnological Museum, 15 Khordad Sq (Sa’ d-Abad Palace?), ☎ +21 311 0653, +98 21 311 3335. edit

• 30 Geology Museum, Meraj Blvd?., Azadi Ave, ☎ +98-21 600-7537, +98-21 607-1981 (to 1990), fax: +98-21 600-9338. Daily 09:00-12:00, restricted to schoolchildren. edit

• Haft-Chenar Wildlife Museum, ☎ +21 573 8745, fax: +98 21 573 8747. Sa-Th 09:00-18:00. Persian: تنوع زیستی حیات وحش edit

• History Museum, Afrouz St., Pirouzi Ave., Shohada Square, ☎ +98 21 878 8680, +98 21 878 8681, fax: +98 21 877 4744. Displays 500 works of art on the 200-year-old history of Tehran. edit

• 31 Iran Historical Car Museum (موزه خودروهای تاریخی ایران در), Lashkary Expressway, Karaj Highway (From Metro Chitgar SW 2.7 km - next to Sepah Store), ☎ +98 21 44 52 5892, fax: +98 21 44 53 7763. Th F Sa 08:00-20:00. The collection include 45 imperial cars, 2 royal carriages and 3 motorcycles.  edit

• Iranian Electrical Industry Museum ? (صنعت برق ایران), Afrouz St., Pirouzi Ave., Shohada Square ?, ☎ +98 21 326 2328. edit

• 32 History Museum, Qobadian St., Vali Asr Ave (From Metro Haghani NW 0.5 km), ☎ +98 21 878 8683. Su-F 09:00-13:00; 14:00-20:00. edit

• Malek National Museum and Library (عکسخانه), Baq Melli, Imam Sq., ☎ +98 21 672 6653, +98 21 672-6613, fax: +98 21 672 7364. 08:30-13:30. Art collections, coins, stamps, carpets. edit

• National Arts Museum (Kamal-ol-molk St, Baharestan Sq), ☎ +98 21 311 6329. edit

• 33 Natural History Museum, 9 9 Qaem Maqam-e-Farahani Ave (M Mofateh 1 km east), ☎ +98 21 884 3498, +98 21 882 4513, fax: +98 21 883 1297. Sa-W 07:00-12:00; 13:00-15:00. Natural specimens pertaining to geology, zoology, botany, fossils of plants and animals on four level. edit

• Rassam Arab-zadeh Carpet (فرش) Museum, 7 First Boustan, Pasdaran Ave, ☎ +98 21 284 9775, +98 21 284 7911, fax: +98 21 284 7912. Sa-Th 09:00-20:00. Small rug exhibit (30 pieces). edit

• Saba House (صبا), No. 92, Zahiro-Islam St., Baharestan, ☎ +98 21 311 1246. Sa-M W-Th 08:00-16:00. Iranian Musician Memorial Museum. edit

• Stained Glass Painting Museum (نقاشی پشت شیشه), No.348, Hedayat St., (Sadi Ave.) (Hedayat & Tonekabon Intersection,), ☎ +98 21 752 6777. Tu-Sa 09:00-18:00. edit

• Tehran University Science Museum (Tehran University), ☎ +98 21 611 2629, +98 21 611 2701. edit

• Telephone, Post & Telegraph Museum (پست و تلگراف), Imam khomeini Ave, ☎ +98 21 670 0503, +98-21 671-028, +98-21 674-454, fax: +98 21 670 9170. Tu-Su 09:00-12:00; 13:00-15:00. edit

• Zoological Museum (تنوع زیستی) (Agriculture Faculty of Tehran University). edit

• National Museum of the Holy Quran (موزه ملی قرآن کریم). edit

Parks

• 34 Jamshidieh Park, Niavaran district, Omidvar (From M: Tajrish 3 km NE or from Aghdasiyeh Subway Station 2.5 km NW). It is one of the most picturesque and beautiful parks in Tehran. It is at the base of the Kolakchal Mountain. Mellat Park in Valiasr street is one of the largest recreation areas in the Middle-East. Niavaran Park is one of Tehran's famous and most pleasant public city parks. It is in the Niavaran district and is situated immediately south of the Niavaran Palace Complex. Additionally there are some large parks called "park-e-jangali" (literally "forest park") around (and some inside) the city which are very popular among the locals for picnic. The most famous one is Chitgar in the west of the city and is accessible via Karaj road. edit
• 35 Ab-o-Atesh Park and the Tabiat Bridge (پارک آب و آتش و پل طبیعت) (The closest metro station is Shahid Haghani (line 1); the park is also a 15-minute walk away from Vanak Sq). The Ab-o-Atesh (lit. "Water and Fire") Park is one of Tehran's newest and most impressive. The highlight of the park is the Pol-e Tabiat or Nature Bridge, which offers spectacular views of north Tehran and the Alborz mountain range. Populated by the well-to-do urban middle classes of Tehran, this friendly park offers a plethora of cafes and restaurants, most of which can be found along the Rah-e Joobi or Wooden Road Food Court (رستوران‌های راه چوبی) in the southern section of the park (nearly all of the restaurants there are open only after 20:00 as it is customary for Iranians to eat dinner late in the evening). The park and its surroundings also offer other services, such as a skate park. (updated Jun 2016 | edit)

Murals

A1one (aka Alonewriter, tanha) graffitis and street art works are a sort of interesting stuff in Tehran's Urban Space. A famous local graffiti artist is at the centre of controversy about whether his work is art or vandalism, and you can see his early works on the Tehran-Karaj Expressway, on the southern side walls UP in Ekbatan and Apadana districts. A more recent work of stencil art is found at the entrance of the Saba Art Institute. - Kolahstudio-an Art Basement, Iranian Underground Arts.

Recreational

Do

• 1 Tochal Mountain (تله‌کابین توچال), end of Velenjak St, Zafaraniyeh (Metro line 1 to Tajrish station, then minibus (15,000 rials) or a taxi to the telecabin entry gate. From the entry gate a minibus service (10,000 rials) can take you to the 1st station), ☎ +98 21 22404001-4. Th F 06:30 till sundown, Sa Su Tu W 08:30 - 14:30. A recreation area on Mount Tochal that offers hiking trails, a ski resort, gym and other activities. It's also a great place to get some scenic views over Tehran and enjoy a little peace and quiet in contrast to the bustling city. Usually people get to the top using cable car. Embarkation point of which is at the 2 gondola lifts' 1st station. However, if you're energetic (or strapped for money), you can simply hike all the way up. You can also start walking and hop on one of the telecabins at the next station when you get tired. If going to the top, bring a jacket, even in summer, as the summit is 4,000 m above sea level so it can be chilly. There are lots of restaurants and cafes near the 1st station and entrance gate, and only one canteen upper on the mountain - at the 5th station. Besides, there is an alpin coaster at the base of the gondola lifts that offers a scenic ride for 200,000 rials. Tickets range from 100,000-380,000 rials depending on how far up the mountain you want to go. Skiing 650,000 rials which also has a side bonus of priority boarding the cabins. (updated Mar 2017 | edit)

There are also two alternative ways of hiking up the mountain:

• 3 Darband, Darband (Taxis to Darband go from Tajrish metro station). This is the alternative way to climb Tochal mountain. The walk goes across a canyon to Tochtal (مسیر کوهپیمایی به توچال از طریق دربند). Short-ride chair lift is also available here and leads to the upper platform, operates only during weekend Th–F 07:00–18:00. edit
• 4 Darake (دركه), Darakeh (The easiest way to get there is to take a taxi or minibus from Tajrish Square). This is another entry point into nearby mountains. Like Darband, Darake hiking trail begins with tens of open-air restaurants alongside a stream. edit

Learn

• Loghatnameh Dehkhoda Institute & International Center for Persian Studies is the only school which offers Persian courses and can arrange student visas for foreigners. Consult the timetable at their website and apply at least 3 months before. People with tourist visas are not allowed to attend classes.

It is easy to find work in Tehran, but you must have a university diploma to be applicable for good jobs. Although there is some inflation, many of the people in Tehran have good and well paying jobs. Like every other big developing world city, there's a big difference between poor and rich.

Buy

For information on Iranian currency see Iran#Buy.

You can exchange your currency in most banks after filling out between two and five forms, but the exchange rate in exchange offices (sarraafis) is always better than what is offered by banks. It is much advisable to go to one of these 1 money exchange offices at Ferdosi Ave (close to Jewels Museum). Such offices can also be found in other parts of the city, but are far more scattered. Ask them to show you a copy of their license, issued by the Central Bank of the country and/or the local guild. A list of licensed sarraafis of the whole country, in Persian (Farsi), can be found here. This list includes phone numbers and addresses as well as license numbers and dates.

Also, most exchange offices in Tehran don't exchange before 09:00, when the daily rate gets fixed.

Do not exchange your money with one of the many individuals offering to exchange along Ferdosi St. It is much riskier and illegal. They might be criminals offering counterfeit money.

Bazaars and shopping malls

Visit the Bazaar, very appropriate for shopping. It ranges from cheap things to very expensive luxury things. You can find almost anything in the Bazaar, from clothing to carpets, kitchen accessories, decorations, jewellery....

There are also numerous shopping malls in the city. Valiasr Street and Tajrish Square (also includes a traditional bazaar) are two of the many locations full of shopping centres in Tehran.

• 2 Grand Bazaar of Tehran (بازار), Panzdah-e-Khordad St (0.5 km SE from metro Panzdah-e-khordad. Ask for Zaid Mosque (امامزاده زید) at Northern limit of the Bazaar). Wander around Tehran's massive bazaar. The main entrance on 15 Khordad Ave leads to a labyrinth of stalls and shops that were once the engine room of Iran's commodity markets and one of Imam Khomeini's greatest sources of conservative, pro-Revolution support. As usual, shops are clustered according to the products they sell. If you're planning on heading out into remote areas, the bazaar is an ideal and cheap place to stock up on almost anything you need. edit
• 3 Milad-e-Noor Mall, 2nd St/Farahzadi St (North 0.5km from Pardisan Park -). edit

• 4 Behjat Abad Market (Bazar Roze Behjat Abad), Aban Street (خیابان آبان) Karimkhan St (From Shahid Nejatolahi Subway Station SW 0.7 km - East from Behjat Abad Park). For those interested in cooking, Behjat Abad Market offers a good variety of fresh ingredients all year round. edit

• 5 Palladium Mall, Moqadas Ardabili St (BRT Line 7, Homayooni stop (همایونی)). The confectionery shop next to the supermarket is perfect for shopping souvenir sweets. Though on the pricey side by Iranian standards, the quality of the sweets is also high. Look out for the Tehranis who are wearing traditional black chadoors; they are a distinct minority among the well-to-do clientele of this ultra-modern mall. edit

Computer software

Due to Iran's refusal to sign the Bern Convention, the sale of pirated software is legal in the country. However, bringing the software home is likely to be illegal and may carry large fines or jail sentences if caught. The software might also not include the correct ID keys and therefore might not work on your computer. Buyer beware!

Places where pirated software is for sale include the bazaar at the corner of Vali-e-Asr Avenue and Enghelab Avenue, Bazar-e-Reza, Bazar-e-Iran, and the "Paytakht Computer Complex", a modern complex of seven storeys filled with computer equipment at the intersection of Vali-e-Asr and Mirdamad. The prices at the "Bazaar Reza" (at Charrah-e-Vali-e-Asr) are usually cheaper. Some of the computer equipment that is sold in Iran are cheap knockoffs.

• 6 Paytakht Computer Complex, At intersection of Vali-e-Asr and Mirdamad (From M 'Haghani' West 1.7km). edit

Jewellery & gold

Jewellery & gold boutiques in Geisha, Milade Noor, Karim Khaan St. Golds, gems, and diamonds.

Bags & shoes

Eat

Budget

You'll find cheap & good enough abgoosht stew in any of the places they call ghahvekhuneh (قهوه‌خانه) which you can find in any non-strictly-residential area. Just ask for a ghahvekhuneh or get this قهوه‌خانه printed and show it. Nice traditional working class ambience as a rule.

You can find several food courts around Tehran with a variety of cuisines from Thailand, India, Italy, China and Turkey.

• Cafe Bork, No.6 , Abdi Nejad Alley, 16 Azar St., Keshavarz Blvd., ☎ +982188985049. 10-21. Cafe and vegetarian foods. edit

• Delsin Sandwiches, Jordan Blvd, in Golfam St. Kebab and sandwich joints are found everywhere. This one has interesting salad, and humus (lebanese mezeh). They have roast beef, chicken, turkey sandwiches that comes with fresh vegetables, like mint and basil. andwiches priced between US$2-4. edit

• Dizi Sara, Jordan Blvd. A hangout of the rich and famous. Abgosht (meat stew) 400,000 rials. (updated Nov 2016 | edit)

• Falafel Stalls, 15 Khordad Ave (across the road from the bazaar). 10,000-25,000 rials. edit

• Food Court at Jaam-e-Jam Mini Mall, Corner of Vali Asr Ave & Taheri Street. A sight to see - not for the food. This is the closest thing in Iran to a pick up bar. Teenagers push the limits on acceptable clothing. Has western import products in several stores underneath. There is also a decent bakery here with western type bread. edit

• Iranian Traditional Restaurant, 28 Keshavarz Blvd (near Agha Bozorg Mosque, underground, down a staircase east of the Canon/Konica shop). Young Iranians flirting, smoking flavored water pipe, and eating. The dizi is recommended. Dizi: 55,000 rials. edit

• Super Star Fried Chicken (SFC). The Iranian version of KFC. Serves very good chicken burgers. edit
• 1 Traditional Restaurant Karimkhan, Karim Khan Bridge/Blvd.. A cozy place serving fantastic Dizi among other traditional dishes. Cute little canaries are flying around. Dizi: 170,000 rials. (updated Nov 2016 | edit)
• 2 Restaurant Moslem, Bazar, District 12 (North West corner of Sabzeh Meydan Square), ☎ +98 21 5560 2275. Huge (very huge!) portions that are hard to finish. That is why most of the locals pack about half the portion for take-away (free). The canteen-like place is super crowded at lunchtime and the people form a long queue. Get an ordering number at the entrance first. Upstairs you can watch the bustling square while enjoying your meal. (updated Nov 2016 | edit)
• When in the Bazaar, don't miss out the 'Sharafol-eslam' restaurant in the Bazaar. It is very famous for its kebabs and chickens, excellent food, excellent quality, you'll never have enough. It gets really crowded though, which requires some patience.

Mid-range

• Armenian Club, 68 Khark St (corner of France Ave - Unmarked. Look for the ornate door). Since this is a Christian restaurant, women are allowed to remove their headscarves and alcohol is served (albeit at very inflated prices). The food is Iranian - not Armenian. There is usually a piano player performing. Muslims are technically not allowed inside. Kebab: 300,000 rials. edit

• Barbod Restaurant, 87 Seoul St.; Vanak Square. edit

• Coffee Shop & Veggie Restaurant at Iranian Artists' Forum, Baghe Honarmandan, Moosavie Str, Taleghani Ave. (just behind the Den of Espionage (former US Embassy) inside the Iranian Artists' Forum building. There are two restaurants at Artists Forum, the vegetarian one is reached from inside the building (turn right as you go in) and has a terrace overlooking the park.), ☎ +98 21 88310462. Fantastic place to stock up on those much needed vegetables. The menu is pure veg and very, very good. Also, great coffees and desserts at very reasonable prices. Serves pizza, sandwiches, and salads edit

• Dizi, near Karimkhane-e Zand St. downtown. A beautiful Dizisara. With many Miniature paintings on walls and a nice meal of Abgusht (traditional Iranian soup-like food, but way heavier than normal soups), it is worth a visit for lunch. Not open for dinner. edit

• Farid, 39 Shahid Sereni St (5 minute walk from Vali Asr Street). Speciality is the steamed blue fish.</ edit

• Hani, Corner of Vali Asr Street & Motahari Street. Delicious Iranian food served buffet style. edit

• Iran Tak, 431 Vali Asr Street (Just north of the metro station. Look for the unmarked ornate blue tile entrance and a staircase down to the basement). Ambient cellar restaurant with ornate chandelier and fountain. Popular with young people since water pipe smoking is allowed for both men and women. Try the lamb leg dishes. Complete meal with drink: 250,000 rials. edit

• Khayyam Restaurant (200m south of the Khayyam metro station, opposite the mosque). Beautifully decorated, originally part of the mosque. 300-year old building restored in 2002. Typical Iranian food. edit

• Sofre-Khaneh Sonatee Ali Ghapoo, Gandhi Ave, ☎ +98 21 8877 7803. 12:00-15:00 & 19:30-23:00. Basement restaurant. Popular with large groups of Iranians. Very noisy. Live music starts at 21:00. Enjoyable atmosphere with waiters in traditional dress. edit

• SPU Restaurant, Darakeh Square, ☎ +98 21 224 19494. Iranian food. Ranked as one of the best outdoor restaurants in Tehran. edit

Splurge

• Alborz Restaurant, Nikoo Ghadam Alley & North Sohrevardi Avenue. Many locals regard this as a fairly good chelo kababi in Tehran. edit

• Bistango @ Raamtin Hotel, 2153 Vali Asr Street. European décor and cuisine. Serves high-end dishes such as filet mignon, caviar, prawns. edit

• Boulevard, 3 Nahid Boulevard (on a small street heading east of Valiasr Avenue between Vanaq Square and Park-e Mellat), ☎ +98 21 2205 1947. Trendy and modern place; serves very good French and Italian food. edit

• Dashte-Behesht (Saadat-Abad). Very high class, the menu consists of different Kebabs and stews. There is always live music to make the atmosphere more enjoyable. edit

• Divan, Fayazi Blvd (Fereshteh) (SAM Shopping Center - 8th Floor), ☎ +98 21-22653853. Fusion Persian food in a luxurious setting. Consistently ranked as one of the best restaurants in Tehran. edit

• Gilac, 15, Parc des Princes, Kordestan highway, ☎ +98 21 88 03 04 04. Specializes in fish from the Caspian Sea. edit

• Monsoon, 8 Gandhi Street (Shahid Ghandi Shopping Center). The best Asian restaurant in Tehran, serving good Thai curries and decent sushi. European décor and music. edit

• Nayeb, 2220 Vali Asr Street (Across the street from the Raamtin Hotel). Traditional Iranian food served in style. edit

• Ranch, No.108, on the corner of Satari and Afriqa (Jordan) Blvd, ☎ +98 21 8865 1618. An Italian restaurant opened in 2014 by Valentino Salvi. Nice outdoor eating space. edit

Confectionaries

Drink

Coffee shops

Coffee shops are a great place for people watching as well as drinking.

• There is a string of coffee shops on the south side of Jomhuriyeh Eslami Ave, a couple of hundred metres west of Ferdosi St. You can stock up on coffee beans and related paraphernalia, or even sample a cup for 4,000 rials.

• Cafe Naderi - serves coffee, tea and pastries to a mix of Tehran's intelligentsia and bohemian elite. It's a great place to sit and watch hip young guys eyeing gossiping girls while old men reminisce about the "good ol' days" under the Shah.

• Gramophone Cafe, Charrahe Vali-e Asr (Vali-e Asr St. - In front of Theatre building). If you want talk to your friends, you can go to Gramophone coffee shop, listen to nice music, and have a nice coffee. Some of people who work there can speak English. Ask for Beiruz. edit

• Hot Chocolate Coffeeshop - they stock cigars and a number of European cigarettes as well. This coffee shop is on occasion, a meeting place for some of Iran's sporting elite.

• Sanaee Coffee Shop, Sanaee St, 13th Street. Definitely worth it for their absolutely fabulous chocolate milkshakes. Try the 'Icepack' chain with their huge sortiment of milk- and ice-shakes. Popular with the Iranian youth.

• White Tower (Borj-e Sefid) along Pasdaran Ave, Definitely worth a visit if in the area- try "White Rose" in the White Tower.

Tea houses

• Azari Traditional Tea House - Just north of the train station. A bit far from the center but worth the trek. The atmospehere here is unique, from the moment you enter from the beaded doorway. This is a popular hangout for people of all ages. Features an eclectic collection of water pipes and tea pots.

• Chai bar (Anjoman Khoshnevisan), 145 North Salimi Blvd (Farmanieh), ☎ +98 21 22210310. In a beautiful historic garden in Tehran. It is an ideal place to spend late afternoons/evenings. It offers great selection of teas and coffees as well as sandwiches. edit

• Entracte Cafe, (upstairs in a cinema on Jomhuri Ave ,just west of Valiasr Avenue ). An atmospheric and bohemic cafe operated by actress Leila Hatami and her husband. Ask for the traditional Iranian tea which is amazing. They serve a fantastic brunch 11:00-14:00 on Fridays and it includes sausages, bread and brie. Damaged by fire but possibly re-opened.

• Gandhi Shopping centre. For trendy cafes filled with liberal Iranians. You will find about ten coffeshops as well as a few very good restaurants, including Monsoon.

Juice bars

Sleep

Budget

• 1 Tehran Heritage Hostel, No. 22, Kamal-ol-Molk, Baharestan Square (Walk 100 meters to the west in Kamal-ol-Molk Street from Baharestan Square Metro Station.). 24h. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. The newly renovated Tehran Heritage Hostel sitting in a 100-year-old-building opened in January 2018. The location is very central and Baharestan metro station is just round the corner. Dormitories have beautifully designed bunk beds with private curtains, individual lockers, sockets and light on each bed and private rooms are en-suite, beautifully decorated with stunning bed linen. Dorms: from €10; privates: from €25. (updated Jan 2018 | edit)

• Firouzeh Hotel, Dolat Abadi Alley, Amir Kabir St, ☎ +98 21 33113508, +98 91 24361974 (Cell), e-mail: info@firouzehhotel.com. Check-out: 14:00. Good hotel with very friendly receptionist, Mr Mousavi, is a good source for information, especially regarding embassies and visas. Great place for breakfast, tea and meeting other travellers. Internet and wifi available. Single: US$28 (870 000 rials, Sep 2016); double: US$30. (updated Sep 2016 | edit)

• Hotel Hafez, Bank Alley, off Ferdowsi Street, ☎ +98 21 66709093, e-mail: hafezhotel@yahoo.com. Location quite good, 5-min walking to National Jewelry Treasure and Turkish Consulate, with nearby currency exchange places. The duty manager (an old gentlemen) is very nice and speaks good English. Rooms are good and clean, bathroom water is hot. Can help you book train/bus/flight tickets, car/van or even visa renewal. Breakfast included. Free Wifi, but signal is not good in the room. Double: US$74. edit

• Hotel Khazar Sea, 12 Ohady Alley, Amir Kabir St, ☎ +98 21 33113860. Very friendly place and relaxed atmosphere around quiet courtyard. Single room from 140,000 rials. edit

• Mashhad Hostel, #388 Amir Kabir Street, Opposite Seraj Mosque, ☎ +98 21 33113062, e-mail: mashhadhostel@yahoo.com. One of the cheapest accommodation in Tehran. Nothing fancy and not exactly very nice but the obvious choice for those on a budget. Has a small kitchen with possibility to boil water and a dial up Internet connection. They do laundry for a reasonable price of 30,000 rials. Dorm beds, single or double. Price for double Dec 2016 500 000 rials. edit

• 2 Hotel Naderi, 520, Jomhouri Ave, ☎ +98 21 21 6670 8610, e-mail: hotelnaderi@yahoo.com. One of the cheapest hotels outside the grubby Amir Kabir Street. Still in central Tehran but Jomhuri Ave. has more restaurants than Amir Kabir St. Hotel Naderi is an old famous hotel where writers and intellectuals still meet in the downstairs Cafe Naderi. Some bathrooms are very old and somewhat dirty but the beds are reasonably clean. Ask for a room in the back to avoid the noise. Not to be confused with Hotel New Naderi. 300,000 rials for a single. edit

• Hotel Saadi, 375 Laleh Zarno St (get off Metro at Saadi Station. Walk down Jomhouri, it's very close from the metro, the intersection is Laleh Zar to the left and Laleh Zarno to the right. Go right and then the hotel is on right side of street about 200-300 m.), ☎ +98 21 33117653. Very new small hotel with free wifi for guests. Single: 850,000 rials; double: 1,240,000 rials. edit

• 3 Yas Hotel & Guesthouse, 458 Laleh Zarno St (Near Hotel Saadi (see above)), ☎ +98 21 33903796, +98 21 33902111. Good location off Jomhuri Ave, close to Saadi Metro. Clean room and shared bathrooms. Clean and simple budget accommodation with shared bathrooms. Sink and TV in rooms. 200,000 rials. edit

• 4 7 Hostel (Seven Hostel), No 5, Dideh Baan Alley, Fakhr-e-Razi St, Enghelab St, Enghelab Sq (http://sevenhostels.com/addresses-and-directions), ☎ +98 21 88 68 15 16, e-mail: sevenhostels@gmail.com. In a villa not too far away from the center; it offers a veranda, kitchen and patient help for your time in Tehran. Dorm US$10; single/double starting from US$40; includes bread, butter, cheese, and jam breakfast. (updated Feb 2017 | edit)
• 5 Tehran Hostel, Malekoshoara bahar St. Gohar Alley . N.2 (Close to Taleghani Metro Station), ☎ +98 912 725 7703, e-mail: tehranhostel@gmail.com. Check-out: noon. Nice little hostel in a residential neighbourhood. Mori the manager is very nice and helpful. Clean dorm and bathrooms (only two (?) for the dorm). It's a good place to meet other travellers: those who just arrived and those who are about to leave. Free Wifi and breakfast: Mr. Mori gets fresh bread every morning and you are free to use the guest kitchen to fry some (free) eggs, boil water for tea and use the fridge. It takes some time to get to the sights but the location is nicer than most of the central hotels. Double €35, dorm €12.50. (updated Nov 2016 | edit)
• HI Tehran Hostel I (Bahar St. Branch, #2, Corner of Firooz Abadi Dead End., Tabatabaei Alley, Bahar Shomali Street (Take off from the Haft-e-Tir Metro station on the red line(Line 1). Leave at Mofateh Street exit. Go straight down until you see Shimi Alley (کوچه شیمی), turn left into Shimi alley and follow it until you get to Bahar-Shomali Street. Cross the street. Tabatabei alley on the other side of street is right in front of you. We are #2 on your left-hand side in Tabatabei alley.), ☎ +98-912-053-0663, e-mail: stay@hitehranhostel.com. Check-in: 14, check-out: 12. Private rooms, mixed dorms and female dorms 13 € per bed per night. This place is clean with a super friendly staff, with a large variety of dorms and private rooms. Beautifully designed and noticeably clean private & dormitory rooms, working space, study & working room, kitchen & serving space, a green front garden which is a place to meet locals & get to know the local culture while relaxing and enjoying a traditional drink or meal, 24/7 reception, secured lockers, CCTV protection for common spaces, free Persian-style breakfast. 11€-100€$. (updated Jul 2018 | edit)
• Hi Tehran Hostel II (Enghelab St. Branch), #854, beside Abiverd Alley, Between college crossroad and Ferdowsi square, Enghelab St., Tehran (Get off at Ferdowsi station(Line 4) from south Ferdowsi Exit. Walk for 3 minutes toward west. After Abiverd Alley you will reach the hostel which is No. 854), ☎ +989120530663, e-mail: hitehranhostel@gmail.com. Check-in: 14, check-out: 12. Hi Tehran Hostel II (Enghelab St. Branch) is in the most famous historical/political street of Tehran, full of cafes, restaurants & art centers. 150 meters from Ferdowsi st and its metro station & exchange shops. The newer of the two Tehran Hostels, it is in a renovated historical building which dates back to first Pahlavi period. Beautifully designed with clean private & dormitory rooms and other amenities as in its sister hostel. 24/7 reception, secured lockers, CCTV protection for common spaces, free Persian-style breakfast. 9-100£. (updated Jul 2018 | edit)

Mid-range

• Amir Hotel, 325 Taleghani Ave. Between Iranshahr and Forsat, ☎ +98 21 8830 4066, +98 21 8830 4069, fax: +98 21 8882 4505, e-mail: info@amir-hotel.com. 70 nice rooms with a great location. Popular with business travelers. Double: US$83. edit

• Atlas Hotel, #206 Taleghaani Ave (7 minutes walk west of Taleqani metro station), ☎ +98 21 88907475, +98 21 88906058, +98 21 88900286, +98 21 88900288, fax: +98 21 88800407, e-mail: hotelatlas@yahoo.com. Check-in: 14:00. Two-star hotel in convenient location and good rooms. Insist on a room in the rear building as rooms in the front building face the very noisy Taleghaani Avenue. Must pay in USD or euros. Breakfast included. Single: $48; Double:$76; Triple: $97. edit

• Ferdowsi International Grand Hotel, No. 20, Kooshk e Mesri street, Ferdowsi Ave (Along Ferdosi Street North of Imam Khomeini Metro Station), ☎ +98 21 66727026, +98 21 66727031, fax: +98 21 66711449. Very nice and posh rooms and fantastic breakfast buffet. Centrally location. Highly recommended. Single US$99; double $140. edit

• Ideal Apartment Hotel (هتل آپارتمان ایده آل), Fatemi Sq Kamran Alley, No. 10 (in a small quiet street just off the busy Fatemi/Vali Asr intersection), ☎ +98 21 88920841, +98 21 88920850, fax: +98 21 88920839. Offers apartments with kitchens and separate sleeping rooms. While not palaces, they are good for self-caterers or people who face a longer stay in Tehran. Staff is motivated and speaks English. US$80 including buffet breakfast. edit

• Iranshahr Hotel, No 81, South Iranshahr Street, ☎ +98 21 88846650, +98 21 88820518, e-mail: info@hotel-iranshahr.com. Opened in 1953; renovated in 1981. Nice rooms and good service. Single US$70; double $98. edit

• Hotel Mashad, 190 Mofatteh St, near Talequani ave., e-mail: info@hotelmashad.ir. Rooms are renovated but small. Some rooms have a view into the former US embassy complex. Single US$59; double $84. edit

• Hotel New Naderi, off Jomhuri-ye Eslami Ave #53, Gohar Shad Alley, ☎ +98 21 66709530, +98 21 66703761, +98 21 66701356, +98 21 66709531, fax: +98 21 66709532, e-mail: newnaderihotel@yahoo.com. By 'new', they mean 1970s. Clean rooms. Single US$44; double $63. edit

• Parasto Hotel (Parastoo Hotel), Mohammad Buyk Alley, off Jomhuri-ye Eslami Ave (Near the British Embassy, a bit of a hike from Ferdosi Metro), e-mail: hotel_parasto@yahoo.com. Basic hotel popular with tour groups. Rooms can be smoky or dirty. Single US$25; double $39. edit

Splurge

Connect

Internet cafés

• Ferdosi Coffee Net - Enghelab Ave, (a few doors east of Ferdosi Square) is hard to find (look for the small sign plastered to a building) has two banks of computers.

• Pars Net - one of south Tehran's hottest coffee nets, dishing up reasonable speed. It is on the eastern side of Ferdosi St, between Jomhuiyeh Eslami Ave and Enghelab Ave, across from the British embassy. They also provide fax and long distance phone services.

• Coffee Net Firouzeh - In Tehran's south in the nice and very friendly Firouzeh Hotel

• Iranian Trade Centre - around Valiasr Square offers several Internet cafes (coffee nets).

In addition to the above caffes, there are many others in all parts of the city.

3G and 4G internet connections

Irancel, Rightel, MCI all have 4G coverage in big cities.

Wireless portable internet connection

Stay safe

Emergency services phone numbers